Last Updated on 10/23/23 by Rose Palmer
Read on to discover all there is to see inside Petra, Jordan, the “Rose City”, one of the 7 New Wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage site. I have been fortunate to visit Petra twice in the last couple of years and I am sharing all my Petra visit experiences as well as all some of my best Petra photos to inspire and to help you plan your own trip to this unique historic wonder.
Regardless of whether you have 1 day in Petra or are planning to spend 2 days in Petra, you should find these travel tips helpful.
Like many, my first knowledge of Petra came from the movie “Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade” and ever since, Petra has been at the top of my travel bucket list. When I was thinking about my first trip to Israel and Jordan, planning an itinerary that included two days in Petra was my most important criteria.
More recently, on a longer 10 day trip around Jordan, my itinerary included 1 day in Petra which still allowed plenty of time to explore the major highlights at a comfortable pace.
Inside Petra – What makes it special
The city of Petra was the capital of Nabatean culture for about 500 years from 400 BCE to 100 CE. The Nabateans were once a nomadic Arab tribe, but through their ingenuity and engineering skills they learned to control the flow of water which allowed them to settle and prosper in the hot Middle Eastern desert.
Unlike the Romans and Greeks, the Nabateans did not leave a lot of written material so historians know relatively little about their culture. They did develop a cursive form of writing which was a precursor to today’s Arabic script.
The Nabateans became expert traders specializing in frankincense and myrrh which were the must have luxury goods 2000 years ago, much like the newest iPhone is today. They controlled the caravan trade routes in all directions, from India in the east to Egypt in the west and Syria, Greece and Rome along the Mediterranean coast. It is incredible to think that they moved goods all those distances with nothing but camels.
With all their wealth, they built their showcase capitol at the crossroads of the trade traffic routes coming from Arabia, Africa, Persia and the Mediterranean. Influenced by their travels, they built their city using Assyrian, Greco-Roman, and Egyptian design elements. At its height, about 30,000 people lived in Petra over an area about the size of Manhattan.
At Petra the Nabateans flaunted their wealth, building dams and developing a large network of channels that allowed them to divert water from as far as 8 miles away. With their sophisticated hydraulic management, they constructed a man made oasis in the desert complete with an Olympic sized ornamental pool, open water canals, fountains and lush gardens.
The Nabateans were also in control of their local food supply. They created extensive, green terraces which they watered and farmed. And similar to the Egyptians, they built grand tombs chiseled out of the surrounding mountains in honor of their dead.
In the early part of the second century Petra came under Roman rule and influence and still continued to thrive for a little while longer. But a major earthquake in 363 and a decline in overland trade routes led to the city’s eventual decline. There is evidence of Byzantine churches on the site, and the Crusaders built castles nearby, but in the subsequent centuries, Petra became lost to all but the local tribes.
Then the lost city of Petra was “rediscovered” by the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burkhardt in 1812. Disguised as an Arab Muslim, he walked through what is now called the Siq and was the first modern westerner to lay eyes on the Treasury.
In 1985 Petra was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and in 2007 it became part of the list of the New 7 Wonders of the World.
Where to stay in Petra
I had booked a room at the Moevenpick Resort Petra which was conveniently located across the street from the Petra Visitor Center. In this case, staying here was all about the location, location, location. But it was also a beautiful hotel with many nice amenities and great food.
I chose to stay at the Movenpick because I knew I would be doing a lot of walking each day inside the archeological site, and at the end of the day when I was hot, tired, and achy, I didn’t want to have to waste any time or energy getting back to my room.
I also wanted to be close so that I could be one of the first ones inside Petra when they opened in the morning. It also made it easier to get in line early for the Petra by Night event.
On my second visit to Petra, I once again stayed at the Movenpick and the experience was just as good. I have stayed at a few Movenpick hotels in Jordan and Morocco and have never been disappointed.
Two Days in Petra
Day 1 of my 2 day Petra itinerary
My first visit to Petra was in November which made it cooler and also less crowded. Having learned as much as I could about Petra before my travels, I was very excited to finally see it.
My driver picked me up early after an overnight glamping stay in Wadi Rum and drove me the two hours to the town of Wadi Musa where the entrance to Petra is located. On the way I saw more of the desert landscape that makes this part of Jordan so unique. It was hard to imagine that an ancient city once thrived in all this barren sand.
Visiting Petra
By lunchtime I was at the Petra visitor center purchasing my ticket. My Jordan Explorer Pass gave me two consecutive visit days in Petra, but I still needed to purchase the Petra by Night ticket. Guides were hanging around, offering their services, but I just politely declined and started the long walk toward the famous Treasury building.
It wasn’t long before I encountered my first ancient monument, a few free standing cube block tombs called the Djinn Blocks.
Just a little further ahead I saw my first rock cut structure, the combined Bab el-Siq Triclinium and Obelisk Tomb which had very distinctive Egyptian details. The tomb was in the upper portion that was crowned by the pyramid shapes. The lower Triclinium was a funerary dining hall where banquets were held in honor of the gods or ancestors.
In the Siq
After walking about a mile, I was at the entrance to the Siq, a gorge that mother nature carved out of the sandstone rocks. Here I saw my first example of Nabatean ingenuity: they cut a 300 foot tunnel through the rock to divert water from the flash floods that helped to shape the Siq.
They also cut irrigation channels in the walls of the Siq that held ceramic pipes which transported water from Wadi Musa 5 miles away.
The afternoon light created a beautiful soft glow on the stone walls around me as I walked through this natural corridor. The pathway twisted and turned so I could not see far ahead which added to the sense of anticipation and mystery.
It is believed that the Nabateans used the Siq as a formal gateway into their city. They paved the road and some of those original 2000 year old limestone pavers can still be seen in a few sections.
For the Nabateans, walking through the Siq was also an important part of their pilgrimage into their holy city of Petra. Large niches cut into the stone that once held sacred figurines of their gods can still be seen today.
My walk through the Siq took another 20 minutes. Because it wasn’t busy, the walk was quiet and peaceful and felt almost cathedral like.
If you don’t want to walk all this way, there are electric carts that can take you from the visitor’s center to the Treasury. Horse drawn carriages are no longer allowed in the Siq, but you will find them at the Treasury and beyond.
Around each bend, I kept expecting to see the famous Treasury building. The suspense built as I continued walking. And then, finally, without warning, I got my Indiana Jones moment as a small bit of this ancient monument peeked through an opening in the high walls overhead.
A few more steps, and the view slowly opened up to reveal a little more of the famous façade, until finally, the stone curtain was lifted completely and I could see Jordan’s most famous sight in all of its glorious splendor.
The Nabateans clearly had a flair for the dramatic. The approach through the Siq and then the slow reveal of this commanding structure was designed to impress and communicated a very clear and loud message of the wealth and power that they wielded.
This first view of the Treasury is indeed breathtaking, even today with all of our great technology and architecture. I can only imagine what an impact this would have had on a first time visitor to Petra 2000 years ago.
Petra’s Treasury
The Treasury, or Al-Khazneh, is indeed impressive in its scale and detail. Both the façade and the opening within were carved out of the solid rock about 2000 years ago at the height of the Nabatean civilization.
Depending on who you read, it was either used as a tomb or a temple (or both) and was designed with very distinctive Hellenistic (Greek) elements. The name Petra actually comes from the Greek word for rock or stone.
In contrast to its elaborate outside, the rooms inside are much smaller, with simple flat walls and are completely unadorned (I could only peek inside since no one is allowed in). For a different perspective, ZamaniProject.org gives 3D views of all the major locations in Petra, including the Treasury.
With binoculars or a telephoto lens, you can get good close up views of the intricate sculpted details adorning the façade, especially those on the capitals.
Much like Michelangelo releasing his sculptures out of one huge piece of marble, the Nabateans had only one chance here to get it right as they chiseled away the stone to create their artistic vision. Apparently, they started carving at the top and then worked their way down.
The Treasury holds court all on its own in a box canyon with no hint that there is more to see in a city beyond. A tented gift shop sold trinkets, snacks and drinks and offered a place to take a break with an unforgettable view. By midmorning though, this small space can get very crowded.
The Street of Facades
As impressive as the Treasury was, it did not provide any clues to the extensive and sprawling remains of the Nabatean capitol beyond. Another short and narrow passage through the rocks led on to the Street of Facades.
The Street of Facades is exactly what the name implies – a series of large, consecutive, less elaborate tombs cut into the side of the rock face.
The Nabateans were influenced by and used design elements from all the cultures that they traded with. Unlike the Greek inspired Treasury, the flat and unadorned surfaces on these tombs with their minimal decorations reflect older Mesopotamian decorative styles.
Moving on, the path slowly widened and I came to another series of older tombs cut like layer cakes into the side of the mountains on either side. As many tombs as were visible here, this is only a small fraction of the 800+ tombs that exist all throughout the greater Petra world heritage complex.
Climbing up a little to the left hand tombs, I discovered openings cut into very colorful striated rock that is common in this region.
If you have more time for a strenuous hike, the Trail to the High Place of Sacrifice also starts in this area – look for the sign pointing to the Beringen of the trail.
Petra was not just a city for the dead, though staying connected to those that had passed on clearly played an important role in their culture. At the end of the Street of Facades I encountered my next amazing site: a 6000 seat theater that was also chiseled directly out of the solid stone.
The afternoon was quickly passing so for my last stop of the day I went to see the Royal Tombs. A series of even bigger structures were built one next to another along the whole front of the Jebel Al-Khubtha (Jebel means mountain in Arabic).
The Royal Tombs
The late afternoon sun bathed the walls in a golden glow that accentuated all the amazing details of the Royal Tombs.
A path and a series of stairs took me to the most impressive of these: the Urn tomb. Like the other tombs in the valley, this one was also carved out of the rock, but also includes man made elements. It is believed that the vaulted arches that provide the support for the large courtyard in front of the tomb were also built by the Nabateans.
This tomb also has a unique feature of a columnated portico adjacent to the tomb façade. In the 5th century CE the inside of the tomb was used by the Byzantines as a church and was modified to fit the liturgical needs of the time. Despite the low light in the tomb, it was still possible to see the beautiful striations of the stone from which this tomb was carved.
Nearby, the Corinthian Royal Tomb showed some of the same Greek inspired elements as the Treasury, but was not as well preserved.
The Palace tomb next door is one of the largest tombs in Petra, measuring about 150 feet high. A portion of the top left was actually constructed from stone rather than rock cut so that the symmetry of the design could be maintained.
By now the sun was getting low in the sky and it was time to head back to the hotel. I still had a one hour walk back through the valley, past the Treasury and then the slow uphill slog through the Siq to the Visitor’s Center.
The Petra Museum next to the Visitor’s Center was open late, so I checked out the displays and learned a lot more about what was known of the Nabatean culture and history.
Day 2 of my 2 day Petra itinerary
On my second day, I wanted to focus on the longer hikes to the less visited spots inside Petra. First on the list was the trail to a viewpoint of the Treasury from above. The best lighting for photographing the Treasury was mid morning so I planned accordingly.
I got an early start and was retracing my steps through the Siq by 8 AM. I continued my walk from the day before (though more quickly this time since I wasn’t taking as many photos) and followed the signs for the Al-Kubtha trail to the Palace tomb, where I started climbing the stairs that marked the beginning of the trail.
As I got higher, I started getting tantalizing views of the valley below. After about 20 minutes of climbing stairs, I reached the top and the trail leveled out. An enterprising Bedouin had set up a covered sitting area that took in the fantastic views of the theater below and provided a nice place to take a break before I continued on.
The high view of the Treasury
The trail continued for another 15 minutes, at one point going through a small rocky ravine, and then it opened up to the view I was waiting for.
I think that from this high perspective, it was much easier to see and appreciate what an immense accomplishment it was to chisel out this huge façade from the mountain side. It was also easier to see all the three- dimensional details and the depth of the carvings, especially on the capitals.
I do not do well with heights, so getting to the edge to look down on the Treasury and get the photos I wanted was a bit of a challenge for me. But the view from this angle was truly spectacular and the hike up was well worth the effort.
Note that recently, the local Bedouin have developed a shorter “trail” to a lower overlook facing the Treasury. For a fee, they will offer to guide you to this view point. The trail starts in the cliff to the right of the Treasury (as you are looking at it) and they help you climb to a spot where they have laid down blankets and then will offer to take your photos with the Treasury as a backdrop (for a fee).
On my second visit to Petra, a lot of people were going to this spot for the typical Instagram photo. I chose not to take this hike because it was very crowded, it did not look safe, and it is not listed as one of the official hikes on the map. Petra is a protected UNESCO site and I did not want to take part or promote an activity that was not officially sanctioned.
The Byzantine Church
After returning back down to the valley from the Treasury overlook, I followed the hillside trail to the site of the remains of a Byzantine Church. In 363 CE a devastating earthquake destroyed much of the Nabatean city. But a little over 100 years later, a large stone church was built here which survived for about 150 years.
Today, the intricate mosaics that still remain are protected and preserved under a tented awning.
From the Byzantine church I continued on the hillside trail toward the end of the valley. On this path I had great views of the Royal Tombs behind me. From this perspective it was easy to see how the Nabateans had carved out the whole front of the mountainside.
I also had extensive views of what is called the Temple Complex. This was once the heart of the living city of Petra.
Hiking to the Monastery
At the end of the valley just past The Basin restaurant where I had lunch, I got onto the trail heading to the Monastery and started making my way up hill. The hike is a little over a mile and has over 800 steps. The trail follows the ancient, winding Nabatean processional path cut into the mountain side.
It was a long and slow climb for me and took me about an hour. Those that are more fit would probably do it in about 40 minutes. The benefit of doing this hike in the afternoon is that the path is mostly shaded and therefore cooler.
If you don’t want to walk up, the Bedouin will offer donkey rides to take you up the steps. Though you should be aware that in some areas the trail is narrow and the stairs somewhat steep. Doing this on a donkey may not feel particularly secure.
At one point in the trail, I passed rock cut caves that had once been used by the Bedouins as homes.
All along the route, local Bedouins have set up booths and colorful displays selling trinkets and souvenirs. Some of the vendors can be quite pushy. I just said no thank you and kept walking. If you don’t want to interact with them then don’t engage and don’t make eye contact. There were also a few kiosks selling drinks and snacks if you needed a break.
As I climbed higher and higher, the views across the valley and the Petra Archeological Site were amazing. I could now get a sense of just how big the city had been at one time and how much carving the Nabateans had done throughout the valley and beyond.
Finally, the path reached the top and opened up onto a large open plateau. Rounding a corner, I finally saw the pinnacle of Nabatean architecture – the Monastery or Ad Deir.
Even though it is called a monastery, scholars believe that this was actually used as a temple. The local Bedouins gave it the name Monastery because of the Byzantine era inscribed crosses inside the chamber.
The Nabateans also leveled out the open area in front of the Monastery and also created a large water pool nearby to catch any runoff and to protect the building. For reference, the height of the Monastery is about 150 feet high and it is about 150 feet wide.
Though the Monastery looks a lot like the Treasury, it is not as highly decorated and scholars say that this design is totally Nabatean. What we no longer see is the bright white stucco and painted decorations that once adorned and protected all of these monolithic sandstone sculptures.
After all that hiking I took a much needed break at the little teahouse that was set up across from the Monastery. A small snack and a cup of tea with this view was indeed a very memorable treat.
I also took this opportunity to photograph my Jordan inspired quilt. I designed this quilt with Bedouin blankets in mind, so this was definitely a fitting location.
Once I had my energy back, we hiked a little further on for higher up views of the Monastery and also to an overlook into the next valley over, Wadi Araba. I especially liked the view showing the contrast of the ancient temple with the modern town of Uum Sayhoun in the distance.
Some Bedouin have put up signs pointing to (unofficial) trails going to “the best view” and then have set up stalls there to sell trinkets. It’s up to you to decide if you want to go through the effort to climb for these other views – I personally did not feel like the view from the extra height was worth the additional precipitous climb.
There is also a cave in a big rock across from the Monastery which is another popular spot for the typical social media photos. A Bedouin there may also ask for a tip to use the cave for photos. I found the cave to be dirty and smelling like urine from the donkeys, so did not find it to be a particularly pleasant location.
I would have like to explore more of the tombs and other archeological sites around the area of the Monastery since there are a lot of them, but by this time in the afternoon, the sun was getting low in the sky, and I still had a very long walk back to the hotel. What goes up must come down, so it was another 800 steps back to the valley floor.
Note that there is a “back door” entrance and exit to the Monastery that the Bedouin will offer to take you through.
On my return walk through the valley, I walked on the Colonnaded Street past some of the archeological sites of the city center that I had not yet seen up close. The best preserved freestanding structure in Petra is the Qasr Al-Bint temple. It is believed that this was the main Nabatean temple dedicated to their primary god Dushara.
Passing through the Roman built Temenos Gate, I entered the area that is called the “Great Temple” even though this was not used as a temple, but rather more as a large reception hall or meeting place.
Under both Nabatean and Roman rule there was also a large pool and garden complex here, demonstrating their sophisticated management of water in the middle of the desert.
I continue on the Colonnaded Street, walking along the main artery of what was once a thriving city center. Once again, the setting sun treated me with beautiful glowing views of the Royal Tombs ahead.
When I reached the Treasury, I indulged in one more long look and a few more daylight photos. I would be back in a few hours again to see it lit by candlelight.
Petra by Night – Is it worth it?
After walking many miles, I was ready for a rest and a good meal. The buffet dinner at the Movenpick Resort was indeed very good with lots of local fresh salad options, different protein choices and desserts. But tired as my legs were, I only got to relax for a little over an hour. It was Wednesday and I had tickets to see Petra by Night.
Petra By Night is usually offered Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings only and requires a separate entry ticket (confirm performance times when you purchase your ticket at the Petra Visitor Center). Since my hotel was right across the street from the visitor’s center, getting in line early was easy.
When it was time, a guide started leading us on the 30 minute walk to the Treasury. I had seen photos of the Siq lit up by candles, and indeed it was. But this was not the quiet experience I had earlier in the day.
Hundreds of people were all walking together side by side through the narrow passageway, eager to be the first ones to arrive. If you hang back, you may be able to get the candle lit Siq to yourself for a little bit.
Once we all reached the Treasury, the guides had us sit down in rows one behind another. The open space in front of the Treasury was filled with lit candles, which did indeed cast a magical glow on this already mysterious façade.
A Bedouin then started playing Arabic music and then a multicolored light show was projected onto the Treasury facade. Once the show was over, people were allowed to get up and take photos amid the candles in front of the Treasury. After about an hour, everyone was then told to head back to the visitor’s center.
To be honest, after really looking forward to this, I ended up with mixed feelings about the event, especially the multi-colored light show. Photos give the perception of a peaceful and exclusive experience, but with many hundreds of people present, all trying to take photos or talking, that is not possible.
On the walk back through the candle lit Siq, I lingered and was among the last ones out (partly because by this point I was really, really tired and was moving slowly). As a result, I had a much less crowded and more pleasant journey.
While Petra by Night was not what I had envisioned, I am glad I had the chance to experience it. If I had not done it, I would have always felt like I missed out.
Petra in one day
My second visit to Petra was in October. I was visiting as a member of a group of travel writers touring Jourdan and hosted by the Jordanian Tourism Board. During this trip I had two nights and one day in Petra and was able to see most of the sights in the valley and also hike up to the Monastery, along with the Petra by Night show.
If you have only 1 day in Petra, you can still see quite a bit, but you will want to prioritize where to go and what to see.
Start your day as early as possible, ideally entering when the site first opens. Buy your ticket ahead of time if you can so you don’t waste time waiting in line. You can also get a Jordan Pass with a 1 day Petra entry.
Starting early will also give you the advantage of enjoying the walk through the Siq without the crowds. You may also be able to experience the views of the Treasury without the masses of people, but the lighting for photos in the very early morning will not be the best.
Spend the rest of the morning exploring the Street of Facades and the Royal tombs and then walk to the end of the valley and have lunch at the Basin Restaurant.
In the afternoon, take the hike up to the Monastery and take a break with a treat or a drink at the cafe there. Take your time with the long walk back to the visitor’s center while enjoying the unique views of Petra one more time. Toward the end of the day, the site is less crowded and you will be able to enjoy the scenery with fewer people present.
If you are tired, you can take an electric cart from the Treasury to the Visitor’s Center. Bedouins will offer camel, donkey, and carriage rides from the Basin Restaurant to the Treasury – it’s up to you if you want to haggle a price and give them your business.
If the Petra by Night show is scheduled for the day you are there, consider attending that event as well – but you will need to buy the ticket ahead of time.
If your schedule allows, also consider a stop at Little Petra which is nearby. It is a much smaller version of Petra and much less crowded.
Where to eat in Petra
The Movenpick
Staying at the Movenpick is convenient for access to Petra, but it also has the added benefit of having a fantastic buffet. I ate breakfast and dinner there twice and can confirm that it is one of the best hotel buffets I have experienced.
The hotel also has an A La Carte restaurant which had a very interesting menu, but unfortunately I did not have time to try it.
As an added bonus, the Movenpick also presents a daily chocolate hour at 5 PM with all sorts of goodies that you can dip into a chocolate fountain. Yum!
The Basin Restaurant
At the end of the valley in Petra, just before the beginning of the Monastery hike, is The Basin Restaurant where I had lunch. It was also a buffet which had a very nice selection of local dishes and salads.
This was a good spot to get out of the sun and recharge, especially before tackling the Monastery hike.
Throughout Petra, there are also little cafes where you can get drinks and snacks.
The Petra Kitchen
If you still have the energy and the time, I suggest taking an evening cooking class at the Petra Kitchen. The restaurant/school is a quick 5 minute walk from the Petra Visitor Center.
Here you will get hands on practice making many of the traditional Jordanian dishes that you have probably tasted on your tour of Jordan- and then you get to eat all the food you made.
I hope this travel guide has inspired you to plan your own visit to the Petra Archeological Park soon. And don’t forget to bring home a souvenir.
Other related stories you may like:
Learn how to take your most memorable images at Petra: 13 Petra Photography Tips For all Skill Levels.
Petra photos in black and white: Ancient Petra – A City of Mysteries in Black and White
A 10 day independent Israel and Jordan itinerary: Tips for a 10 Day Israel and Jordan Itinerary
A day at a Wadi Rum luxury camp: Desert Magic at a Wadi Rum Luxury Camp in Jordan
How to spend a day in Jerusalem: One Day in Jerusalem: Where Three Religions Intersect
Thanks for visiting.
Rose
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